At the end of May we spent three days hiking through the upper portion of Grand Gulch, in Cedar Mesa, Utah. This was the third time I’ve backpacked in Grand Gulch, but the first since the area was designated as part of Bears Ears National Monument by President Obama in 2016. Nothing has changed as far as I can tell – just the same amazing canyon scenery and fascinating archeological history to be found around nearly every bend.
Backpacking in Grand Gulch
We hiked from Kane Gulch to Bullet Canyon, and were fortunate to score a last minute shuttle ride from some friendly folks from the Colorado Mountain Club from Colorado Springs, which saved us much road walking (or hitchhiking)!
During our walk through Grand Gulch we saw more than a dozen significant Ancenstral Puebloan ruin sites, and surely passed by many more hidden from view. Many of the ruins are located under deep alcove overhangs, or on high inaccessible ledges.
One of the joys of backpacking on the Colorado Plateau is finding big slickrock campsites like this one, where you can stretch out on the clean rock. Plus, camping on rock is the ultimate leave-no-trace place to hang around!
This trip was the second time I've backpacked this route, and also my second attempt at shooting night photos at this special kiva (see my earlier photos here). This time I woke up in the middle of the night and hiked up here to catch the Milky Way above the kiva on this moonless night.
As I’ve written about previously, with its abundant historic and scenic riches, there is absolutely no doubt that Cedar Mesa deserved the national monument designation and protections that President Obama granted it. Let’s hope it remains that way, and is not rescinded or reduced out of petty political spite.