Down in the Narrows

May 16, 2024  |  Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado

The Black Canyon of the Gunnison is easily one of the most awe inspiring sights in Colorado. Carrying snowmelt down from a broad watershed of the West Elk, Elk, Sawatch, and San Juan Mountains, the Gunnison River roars through 2,000 sheer vertical feet of 1.8 billion-year-old Precambrian gneiss and schist.

In mid-May I decided to go hike from the north rim down through Long Draw and camp at the bottom of the narrowest part of the Black Canyon. I did this same route 17 years ago, which is enough time for me to forget most of the details! I do remember that back then I hauled my large format 4x5 camera down there - just that camera kit alone weighed as much as my entire pack weighs now, including camera!

In the depths of Long Draw, looking down towards the Gunnison River far below.

In the depths of Long Draw, looking down towards the Gunnison River far below.

As I scrambled down the steep rocky route I was certainly grateful for my lighter gear these days. I've hiked all the named routes down into the Black Canyon and I'd say this one is the most challenging. There are numerous tricky little downclimbs to negotiate, as well as the loose rock slides that are so common around here.

The Gunnison River roars past my campsite at the bottom of Long Draw, in the Narrows - the narrowest part of the Black Canyon...

The Gunnison River roars past my campsite at the bottom of Long Draw, in the Narrows - the narrowest part of the Black Canyon.

Once at the bottom, I found the one "campsite" - just a tiny spot flat enough to pitch a small tent. To be honest, it felt quite ominous and unnerving down there so deep beneath the dark, imposing walls with the river roaring like a jet engine. I sat for about an hour contemplating whether I really wanted to camp here or if I should just bail and hike right back out. But after eating lunch my mood brightened a bit along with a clearing blue sky (at least what I could see of the sky), so I decided to stick with my plan and stay the night after all.

Wikipedia states that the Utes referred to the river as "much rocks, big water" and are known to have avoided the canyon out of superstition. On this evening I could sympathize.

The Gunnison River flows through the Narrows of the Black Canyon.

The Gunnison River flows through the Narrows of the Black Canyon.

I did have fun shooting photos of the flowing river and changing light, which occupied my time (and mind) for most of the afternoon and evening. At night I had dreams I was on an airplane, and a couple times woke up worried about rockfall, but for the most part I actually slept through the night okay!

Gunnison River in the depths of the Black Canyon.

Gunnison River in the depths of the Black Canyon.

Although the bottom of the narrowest part of the darkest, narrowest canyon in North America might not be the most pleasant place to camp ever, it is still very much an impressive place to experience!

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